StitchWord Editorial Issue August 2015

In my last issue I talked about how the domestic garment industry in India is catching up to the best practices of export industry. The same is also true for Bangladesh garment industry which is currently maturing from the point the Indian industry operated during mid 90’s. The only difference is the pace with which the country is moving forward and taking cautious steps not to repeat the mistakes that its predecessors did. Since there is no technology lag between developing and developed countries in garment manufacturing, the industry in South East Asia should take the advantage of low wages to scale up the production and be prepared for the changes.

As the manufacturing industry is now at the doorstep of two of the world’s most populous nations – India and Bangladesh, the industry should exploit the domestic industry and not just eye exports. It is interesting to note that out of the current top garment producing nations only 4 countries, namely Bangladesh, India, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, are among the top 30 ranked countries in terms of population density. China ranks a distant 57th despite its huge population head count. Interpreted into business, it means there will be more potential for manufacturers to cater to domestic market rather than the exports in these countries.

We should not forget the Ford’s philosophy that mass produced goods should be affordable for the masses. Current approach of export-driven garment industry in the LDCs (Least Developed Countries) like Bangladesh is beneficial in the short-term due to Government’s over-attention and foreign currency earning. In the long-term the economy will grow, wages will rise and industry will migrate like we are witnessing in China. If we look at India’s scenario, where the indifferent attitude of the Government towards garment manufacturing industry is well documented, the writing on the wall is quite clear. You have to be competitive enough to survive and the competition is not only from within the industry, it is also beyond from other industries too. In a matured economy like India, the garment manufacturing industry is competing with other industry sectors like retail and security for its manpower.

To be relevant for the domestic industry, the manufacturing industry should also concentrate on product development rather than only the overall unit’s efficiency. Product development in apparel manufacturing industry is one area where the concept of newness is somehow missing. When new products create the right consumer-connection, they can fetch higher unit value realization, which to a certain extent will ease up the bottomline.

Kolkata is one manufacturing hub, where the export industry co-exists harmoniously with the domestic manufacturers. The nature of the business is very fragmented and few companies can claim to run organized factories. Among the various product categories that the hub works with, workwear has the biggest audience overseas with a majority of the production in the category being exported. Team SW was in Kolkata recently where they met Mallcom (India), JPM Exports and Rama Overseas – all looking to break the conventional manufacturing mindset of Kolkata and consolidate their manufacturing operations, for being more efficient and growth-oriented. A rundown on the current situation of the Workwear segment is presented in the article ‘Kolkata, India’s Workwear Capital all set for a Makeover;\ Reinventing Manufacturing Paradigms’.

The current SW also features the last article under the IE series – ‘Value Engineering’. Through these 12 articles we have presented different aspects to IE, some well known while others relatively new and unexplored areas like ‘Ergonomics’. We would welcome constructive feedback from our readers on how useful this series has been to their operations and understanding of better utilization of the IE department. We would also welcome suggestions on other concepts that you all would like to
know about.

StitchWord Editorial Issue July 2015

With global rating agencies declaring that the Indian domestic market is ready for a major jump in size as consumers come of age, many traditional manufacturers and even garment exporters are now increasing their reach and making effort to give ‘quality’ products.

It reminds me of the early days of the garment export industry, around the 80s, when most operated out of garages, barsati floors or from unauthorized areas and were exploring ways to be a preferred supplier. It was only in the 90s that the manufacturers emphasized on machines to improve their quality, and in the early 2000’s the focus shifted to compliance and finally to enhanced productivity and improved systems for better margins.

Today, the domestic market is at the 90s stage, looking to upgrade because of the growing expectation of domestic consumers for quality, and also the neighbouring countries clamouring to enter India. Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, during his recent visit to Dhaka, initiated a dialogue to improve trade relations, and the garment industry in the country is now eyeing the Indian domestic retail market as a huge opportunity. Even the push for ‘Make in India’ is attracting global investments in various industries.

The Indian market is already flooded with international retailers/brands like Gap, Zara, M&S and volumes of other retailers. Only today I read that American fashion retailer Aeropostale is also set to enter the fast growing Indian market through a licensee agreement with Arvind Lifestyle. Julian R Geiger, CEO of Aeropostale aptly summed up the interest in India, “India is a truly exciting retail market, driven by its growing economy and vibrant youth culture.” These developments are bound to boost local buying for local sales and only those manufacturers and suppliers will thrive who are capable of global standards.

What the manufacturing industry now needs and is actively looking for is mentors and consultants, people or organizations that can fast track their overhauling. The export industry took two decades to get where it is now… I am confident that the domestic manufacturers will move much faster… It is an opportunity for all technology and knowledge providers to the garment industry.

The weekend workshops that Apparel Resources has initiated is one such platform to explore. Through our very detailed and focused workshops which clearly gives the road map to implement management tools like Lean Sigma, TQM, TPM and other such concepts for optimal utilization of man and machine, companies can upgrade their working while simultaneously investing in technology. As of now it has largely been the garment exporters who have shown interest, but now we are receiving feelers from the domestic manufacturers also…, a good sign indeed!

Interestingly, Kolkata is the only apparel manufacturing hub catering to the export market, where the apparel manufacturing industry is yet to upgrade from being an unorganized sector as even the biggest apparel manufacturers do not have unit bigger than 50 sewing machines. But this is set to change… During my team’s latest trip to the city, we discovered that every leading apparel and workwear supplier has either established a new facility or is in the process of establishing a new facility by centralising all its small-small units under a single roof for future sustenance of business. A review of Exodus Futura Knits’ business strategy and manufacturing operations, featured in detail in this issue, gives a lot of cues to the companies who are looking at such large facilities and a direction to the future of the hub.

StitchWord Editorial Issue June 2015

We have been organizing weekend workshops (in a group of not more than 16 delegates) for quite some time now and our latest one on ‘Implementing Lean Sigma in Apparel Manufacturing’ was a huge success. On the second day of the two-day workshop (May 30-31), we had to announce the repeat of the same on 13th and 14th of June 2015. A real transition of the industry from ‘I know it all’ to learning with experts and through sharing..., especially on Saturdays and Sundays says a lot.

Encouraged by the response we have received, we are determined to upscale our workshop initiative with more industry-focused topics and inviting subject experts from within the industry to be a part of the initiative. If there is any special topic subject that could be of interest, do let us know, so that we can deliberate and plan a workshop on the same.

Experts from the industry are also welcome to be a part of this initiative. If you feel the need to give back to the industry with real and positive learning, do write to us so that we can connect.

I was at the Texprocess, Germany last month and enjoyed the exposure and opportunity the platform provides to interact with technology experts from around the world as also the industry from the sub-continent, especially from India and Bangladesh. The focus of the technology on display in Germany was radically different from last year at the Texprocess, USA where robotics was the focal point of development in technology. At Germany, the upgraded and new technology on sustainable lines was in sync with requirements of manufacturing destinations in Asia.

All of the technology providers were upbeat and enthusiastic about the future and one can only infer that the market is improving... What was definitely evident was the importance that the sub-continent holds in the market strategy of all technologyproviders. This issue carries a review of the Texprocess and some of the new technologies presented at the event.

In the series on Industrial Engineering, our experts have talked about the importance of ergonomics in not only providing a congenial work environment but also for better performances. It is interesting how the role of IE has expanded over the years beyond setting up lines and calculating SAM values. Today, the IE is also playing a crucial role in sustainability efforts, helping out in ensuring sustainable practices to achieve the core desired result of improved performance and optimal utilization of human and
machine resources.

StitchWord Editorial Issue May 2015

I am really looking forward to visiting Texprocess in Germany… and I am sure a lot of other manufacturers from Asian countries too are equally excited.
Every technology fair has acquired a certain reputation…, and expectations of why a visitor should be going to the event are built on that reputation… Asia’s technology platform CISMA has become a serious hunting ground for manufacturers from all over Asia to buy suitable machines. The event is also a haven for agents from various countries to forge new associations. At the event, attachments/folders are big attractions…, but Texprocess is a bigger stage, where the purpose is not necessarily to buy, but to explore!

While Texprocess, Americas is for futuristic developments in robotics, Texprocess, Europe is the chosen platform by technology providers to showcase the latest improvements in existing machines…, a direction in automation and how to better run manufacturing units.

It is a place to explore suitable diagnostic solutions for factories. The small but meaningful changes that one sees in different machines could be targeted at quality output, productivity improvement or sustainable manufacturing… and while people may not buy the same immediately, it is something that they will keep in their mind and invest, maybe two years down the line.

Every time I go to Texprocess, the learning in all segments is immense. I enjoy moving from one booth to another, witnessing the change happening before my eyes…, small improvisations that bring about noticeable results. Even companies that showcase in smaller country-specific fairs like our very own GTE, use Texprocess as a launch pad for their latest offerings…; along with the technology, the conversation too is directional… It is a platform that all sewn product industry players should visit, just for the learning.

Revolutionary technology in sewn industry is far between, but what is happening is changes, and Texprocess is the platform for these changes. Dr. Prabir Jana has handpicked some of the technologies to look out for when at the Texprocess. Also highlighted are the technologies that are going to be presented by leading players who are prominently selling in Asia.

For our readers, Team StitchWorld has analyzed product strengths of four growing manufacturing destinations in Asia – India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Myanmar – and the emerging products that look promising. Supplementing these strengths are key directions for technology suppliers to invest in…; the Texprocess is the right platform to discuss and analyze what technology be in demand and where.

Under our ongoing series on IE in Apparel Manufacturing, this issue has a run down on Minimizing Start-up Losses; how fast and effectively one can adjust to the requirements of different orders is one of the keys to success for any organization and quick response manufacturing systems which can handle low volume – multi styles with faster throughput and efficiency are the need of the hour. The article emphasizes that logical approach supported by IE may result in quick changeover with minimizing start-up losses.

From this issue onwards, we have initiated a new series under which SW will trace the evolution of technology for different garment manufacturing machineries and equipments and how the gradual improvement of features have supported the users in the first article of the series, the technology under review is Fabric Spreader.

StitchWord Editorial Issue April 2015

Remaining competitive is perhaps the biggest challenge for the industry today… more so as the uncertainties that impact global trade is aplenty and not all of them are in the control of the manufacturer.

Among the ‘un-controllable’ factors that affect business is ‘currency fluctuation’. While the rupee has remained largely stable against the dollar in recent times, other currencies have weakened sharply, making such countries more competitive. But these and similar such situations will continue to impact the exports from time to time.

What manufacturers can do is rework their internal systems and rely on technology to improve productivity, worker’s efficiency and bring down cost of production so as to offer more competitive prices. It is a continuous process for progress and to safeguard against any future uncertainties and adverse situations.

Identifying technology that can help achieve determined goals is critical…, and it’s the reason we have reviewed the recently concluded GTE, New Delhi edition in a new and more meaningful format, seeking to help the industry to find the right fit for their requirements among the maze of technologies available in the market.

Each new feature in a machine enhances performance, and for industry it is not always easy to search out what serves them the best. With the new format, StitchWorld has segregated the showcased machines under five broad categories ‘Thread’ on the basis of the defining features of the machines, going through and searching technology is more productive.

The five ‘Threads’ are – Productivity Improvement, Innovation, Value Addition, The Compliance Influence and Automation in Jeans Manufacturing. All these factors are major thrust areas for the industry and while each manufacturer looks for technology which best suits his setup, the quest to stay competitive is the driver. New brands and updated features of old versions are highlighted separately for easy reference.

SW takes its role of a facilitator to enhance performance of factories very seriously…, and another effort in that direction is the series of workshops that we have initiated. The upcoming topics include – Implementing Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) in Apparel Industry, and Implementing Lean Sigma in Textile and Apparel Industry. We all also plan to have another session on Implementing Total Quality Management (TQM) in Textile and Apparel Industry on popular demand. Details of the workshops will be announced soon. After the positive response to the first workshop, we are determined to give more such interactive and useful workshops.

Taking the growing interest in the TQM concept a step further, the next issue of SW will feature the first article in a series developed by the highly skilled Team of SW on TQM implementation. With many combined years of shopfloor and consulting experience in implementing QMS system, the experts in the three-article series will describe implementation procedure of different QMS systems, viz. TQM, ISO System and Six
Sigma in textile and apparel sector.

StitchWord Editorial Issue March 2015

The first of a series of workshops planned by Apparel Resources for the year was a great success… The topic TQM is a flash point at many companies and it was rewarding to see senior production personnel from technology-driven companies like Orient Craft, Matrix, Radnik and Neetee Clothing enthusiastically participating and exchanging notes.
Even more rewarding was the post-workshop feedbacks. The delegates expressed satisfaction at the programme's content and showed interest in applying some of the learnings… But what really brought a cheer was my discussion with Animesh Saxena, Director, Neetee Clothing at the recently concluded GTE… He shared that his team which participated at the workshop was now involved in a project to implement some of the key TQM techniques shared by the resource person. He even suggested that we should take our initiative a step further and support the implementation at factories through post-workshop follow-up and hand-holding.

These positive and constructive feedbacks have given us the confidence to move forward with many more such workshops… We invite our readers to share with us areas or topics that would interest them; identifying the right resource person and working out a meaningful programme is our commitment.

This issue carries a detailed report on the workshop. We have also given a short but very intuitive round-up of the GTE and the standout technologies on display. Special features have been highlighted and applications of the same are the crux points. If anyone of you would like to read in detail about the various companies’ participation at the fair, they can write in to us for a soft copy of our daily supplements that we brought out during the event.

Meeting industry at the GTE is a highpoint of the event for me and I was again reminded of the low expectations of 'we' Indians… while the general infrastructural issues and less visitation from the exporting community was upsetting for the foreign participants who were quite voracious on the topic, most Indian technology providers were satisfied… I guess that is why the fair works at a larger platform.

Personally, I think lot of introspection is required on what type of technology should be displayed at the forum. The visitor-base has changed a lot since the event was initiated and increasingly we are seeing much more visitation from smaller towns and also
I would like to appreciate the education initiative by Lectra – 'Technology Education 2015 & Beyond', which was unveiled at the fair. It is totally in sync with what we at SW achieve to do…, give right type of industry focused information to students, who are the future of this industry.

We bring to our readers a very innovative company, Goodpeople Clothing Company (GCC), which has been retailing selvedge denim jeans for the Indian market under the brand name Korra, at just Rs. 2,900, a little less than US $ 50, which is half the price of the cheapest selvedge denim jeans retailed in the USA. This unique company has a production and
marketing strategy which is very upfront and practical.

StitchWord Editorial Issue February 2015

A lot has been written and said about ‘training’, the methodologies of training and the gaps in training for the garment export industry. There is no doubt that training is an integral part of ‘growing’ and no company can afford to ignore the importance of up-scaling skills to meet evolving challenges. Today, most of the training efforts are for operators and involve increasing skills and handling of new technologies.

Little effort has gone into sharpening the skills of middle-level and senior executives/managers. Also most of the workshops held in this direction are more of a meeting ground then serious attempts at training. Analyzing why most short-term training workshops fail to yield results, I have come to the conclusion that there is a misfit in what the industry wants and what experts/consultants have to offer.

Sadly, most of the training workshops for middle-level and senior executives fail to inspire the participants, and companies end up gaining little from the process. My team has over the years participated in a number of such workshops and find that one of the most critical elements missing is engagement. In a move to not only bridge the gap, but also give a new direction to the term training, Apparel Resources has initiated a series of workshops with targeted themes relevant to the industry in its various operations.

The effort is to give participants over a period of a day or two a clear understanding of the subject, and through games and interactions, involve the participants to apply their mind and share experiences. The subjects and resource persons conducting the workshops have been put together after much brainstorming with a large section of the industry and a number of consultants.

The idea is not to take away people during work hours but give them an opportunity to upscale their understanding of critical issues over a relaxed and interactive two days; free from the pressure of work.

I am sure the industry will appreciate the thought behind initiating these workshop sessions… The March issue of SW will carry the outcome of our first workshop on TQM and also the reactions of the delegates.

In the meanwhile, this issue has three industry informed persons – Piyush Vyas (Industry Expert), Chandrajith Wickramasinghe aka CJ (Consultant) and Amit Bahl (Architect), talking about the factors that need to be kept in mind while setting up a factory, including a multi-storeyed one. Many frequently asked questions have been answered by these experts in detail. Continuing our series on Industrial Engineering, the topic of discussion in this issue is how to make an operational bulletin.