StitchWord Editorial Issue April 2015

Remaining competitive is perhaps the biggest challenge for the industry today… more so as the uncertainties that impact global trade is aplenty and not all of them are in the control of the manufacturer.

Among the ‘un-controllable’ factors that affect business is ‘currency fluctuation’. While the rupee has remained largely stable against the dollar in recent times, other currencies have weakened sharply, making such countries more competitive. But these and similar such situations will continue to impact the exports from time to time.

What manufacturers can do is rework their internal systems and rely on technology to improve productivity, worker’s efficiency and bring down cost of production so as to offer more competitive prices. It is a continuous process for progress and to safeguard against any future uncertainties and adverse situations.

Identifying technology that can help achieve determined goals is critical…, and it’s the reason we have reviewed the recently concluded GTE, New Delhi edition in a new and more meaningful format, seeking to help the industry to find the right fit for their requirements among the maze of technologies available in the market.

Each new feature in a machine enhances performance, and for industry it is not always easy to search out what serves them the best. With the new format, StitchWorld has segregated the showcased machines under five broad categories ‘Thread’ on the basis of the defining features of the machines, going through and searching technology is more productive.

The five ‘Threads’ are – Productivity Improvement, Innovation, Value Addition, The Compliance Influence and Automation in Jeans Manufacturing. All these factors are major thrust areas for the industry and while each manufacturer looks for technology which best suits his setup, the quest to stay competitive is the driver. New brands and updated features of old versions are highlighted separately for easy reference.

SW takes its role of a facilitator to enhance performance of factories very seriously…, and another effort in that direction is the series of workshops that we have initiated. The upcoming topics include – Implementing Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) in Apparel Industry, and Implementing Lean Sigma in Textile and Apparel Industry. We all also plan to have another session on Implementing Total Quality Management (TQM) in Textile and Apparel Industry on popular demand. Details of the workshops will be announced soon. After the positive response to the first workshop, we are determined to give more such interactive and useful workshops.

Taking the growing interest in the TQM concept a step further, the next issue of SW will feature the first article in a series developed by the highly skilled Team of SW on TQM implementation. With many combined years of shopfloor and consulting experience in implementing QMS system, the experts in the three-article series will describe implementation procedure of different QMS systems, viz. TQM, ISO System and Six
Sigma in textile and apparel sector.

StitchWord Editorial Issue March 2015

The first of a series of workshops planned by Apparel Resources for the year was a great success… The topic TQM is a flash point at many companies and it was rewarding to see senior production personnel from technology-driven companies like Orient Craft, Matrix, Radnik and Neetee Clothing enthusiastically participating and exchanging notes.
Even more rewarding was the post-workshop feedbacks. The delegates expressed satisfaction at the programme's content and showed interest in applying some of the learnings… But what really brought a cheer was my discussion with Animesh Saxena, Director, Neetee Clothing at the recently concluded GTE… He shared that his team which participated at the workshop was now involved in a project to implement some of the key TQM techniques shared by the resource person. He even suggested that we should take our initiative a step further and support the implementation at factories through post-workshop follow-up and hand-holding.

These positive and constructive feedbacks have given us the confidence to move forward with many more such workshops… We invite our readers to share with us areas or topics that would interest them; identifying the right resource person and working out a meaningful programme is our commitment.

This issue carries a detailed report on the workshop. We have also given a short but very intuitive round-up of the GTE and the standout technologies on display. Special features have been highlighted and applications of the same are the crux points. If anyone of you would like to read in detail about the various companies’ participation at the fair, they can write in to us for a soft copy of our daily supplements that we brought out during the event.

Meeting industry at the GTE is a highpoint of the event for me and I was again reminded of the low expectations of 'we' Indians… while the general infrastructural issues and less visitation from the exporting community was upsetting for the foreign participants who were quite voracious on the topic, most Indian technology providers were satisfied… I guess that is why the fair works at a larger platform.

Personally, I think lot of introspection is required on what type of technology should be displayed at the forum. The visitor-base has changed a lot since the event was initiated and increasingly we are seeing much more visitation from smaller towns and also
I would like to appreciate the education initiative by Lectra – 'Technology Education 2015 & Beyond', which was unveiled at the fair. It is totally in sync with what we at SW achieve to do…, give right type of industry focused information to students, who are the future of this industry.

We bring to our readers a very innovative company, Goodpeople Clothing Company (GCC), which has been retailing selvedge denim jeans for the Indian market under the brand name Korra, at just Rs. 2,900, a little less than US $ 50, which is half the price of the cheapest selvedge denim jeans retailed in the USA. This unique company has a production and
marketing strategy which is very upfront and practical.

StitchWord Editorial Issue February 2015

A lot has been written and said about ‘training’, the methodologies of training and the gaps in training for the garment export industry. There is no doubt that training is an integral part of ‘growing’ and no company can afford to ignore the importance of up-scaling skills to meet evolving challenges. Today, most of the training efforts are for operators and involve increasing skills and handling of new technologies.

Little effort has gone into sharpening the skills of middle-level and senior executives/managers. Also most of the workshops held in this direction are more of a meeting ground then serious attempts at training. Analyzing why most short-term training workshops fail to yield results, I have come to the conclusion that there is a misfit in what the industry wants and what experts/consultants have to offer.

Sadly, most of the training workshops for middle-level and senior executives fail to inspire the participants, and companies end up gaining little from the process. My team has over the years participated in a number of such workshops and find that one of the most critical elements missing is engagement. In a move to not only bridge the gap, but also give a new direction to the term training, Apparel Resources has initiated a series of workshops with targeted themes relevant to the industry in its various operations.

The effort is to give participants over a period of a day or two a clear understanding of the subject, and through games and interactions, involve the participants to apply their mind and share experiences. The subjects and resource persons conducting the workshops have been put together after much brainstorming with a large section of the industry and a number of consultants.

The idea is not to take away people during work hours but give them an opportunity to upscale their understanding of critical issues over a relaxed and interactive two days; free from the pressure of work.

I am sure the industry will appreciate the thought behind initiating these workshop sessions… The March issue of SW will carry the outcome of our first workshop on TQM and also the reactions of the delegates.

In the meanwhile, this issue has three industry informed persons – Piyush Vyas (Industry Expert), Chandrajith Wickramasinghe aka CJ (Consultant) and Amit Bahl (Architect), talking about the factors that need to be kept in mind while setting up a factory, including a multi-storeyed one. Many frequently asked questions have been answered by these experts in detail. Continuing our series on Industrial Engineering, the topic of discussion in this issue is how to make an operational bulletin.

StitchWord Editorial Issue January 2015

now everyone must be back from their holidays and all charged up for 2015… as always it’s time for a retrospect and an action plan for future growth.
One of the best things about doing a recap issue is that it gives us an opportunity to evaluate subjects covered all through the year for its relevance to the industry… All I can say is that I am satisfied that through our various issues, several important topics have been discussed and analyzed, addressing the present and future needs of the industry.

Even as the world takes to social media for spreading information and sharing thoughts…, the sewing industry is slowly waking up to the potential of social media in its evolution. StitchWorld not only emphasized how YouTube can be used effectively for training, but also highlighted how the same is useful in comparing technologies and making informed decisions when selecting
machines for specific needs.

IT has given wings to new opportunities and it is heartening to see that more and more companies are adapting to IT-enabled systems for achieving greater productivity, efficiencies and more timely deliveries…

A strong IE department is the backbone of a good manufacturing process, and it is important to understand how to get the best out of the team. A series on ‘IE’ which will continue in 2015, addresses various elements of IE and how best to supplement these elements for best results. While the bigger manufacturers are comfortable in their area of operations, smaller ones are struggling with routine…, it is becoming increasingly important to create niches and make the company a preferred supplier. The most effective way to differentiate is to work in niche products that have immense market potential, but few competitors!

Spotlighting a few such categories, SW has talked about some diverse products such as outdoor gear, swimwear, equestrian clothing, umbrellas and outerwear jackets for extreme weather activities. Many of the next growth categories are going to be linked to ‘stitchless’ technology, which has been emphasized time and again through the pages of SW. The concept has been demystified and various technologies analyzed for forward thinking companies to move ahead. SW continued with its efforts to stress on the importance of automation, not only to save manpower, but also critical sewing minutes. Today, product quality and product standardization are not a matter of negotiation, and using automates is the only way to combat rising expectations in both areas.

Even as automation takes huge strides in the industry, Delhi-NCR is fiercely guarding its own unique way of functioning from using ‘jugaad’ to offer complicated styles to specializing in high-end designer garments which rely heavily on operator’s skills. In this approach to business, keeping operators motivated and skilled is very important... SW went ahead to survey workers in the region to understand their expectations and satisfaction levels..., some interesting findings are worth a review.

And last but not the least..., how can professionals in the industry update and upgrade their proficiency... Some career-oriented training programmes in emerging areas like sustainability and factory management, find mention in the series…
We have given an insight into all these areas through seven recap themes… Hope you will enjoy reading them as much as we enjoyed putting them together… If there is any specific area or topic that you feel needs special attention this year, do let us know

StitchWord Editorial Issue December 2014

As another year comes to an end, the manufacturing industry is still at the crossroad of policy revivals… No doubt, there is a talk about labour reforms and push for manufacturing friendly environment, skill development and promoting industry incubators, but the truth is that the garment manufacturing industry remains inconsequential for the Government...

Even our neighbour Bangladesh is growing exponentially and maturing from being a learner to now a trainer, while India remains a silent spectator in the midst of Government indifference to this sector. I have been saying time and again, and many articles have been published in the last one year to emphasize the point that the industry deserves a better deal… now it is for the Government to take heed.

StitchWorld in its efforts to engage and educate the industry about the best practices and forthcoming technology interventions in garment manufacturing, has started a new series on industrial engineering and stitchless fabric joining applications. I remember an interesting point mentioned in the 2001 Mckinsey report that noted “productivity (of Indian apparel manufacturers) is low not because tailors are using the wrong technology but because tailoring firms are too small to benefit from the best technologies and therefore should not exist”. I wonder the same logic holds true for knowledge dissipation as well.

While four articles of the series on IE have already been published, surprisingly not a single comment/feedback has come in from the industry! I wonder is it because “manufacturing firms are too small to benefit from the best practices and therefore do not bother” or is it that not all entrepreneurs are equally dynamic, and a large fraction in the manufacturing sector may well be content to operate at relatively low scales, and knowledge dissipation effort to such entrepreneurs about the best practices is unlikely to shed any useful light!

Whatever the case, StitchWorld is committed to knowledge dissipation and will continue in its efforts to bring latest information of the sewn industry to its readers… In the current issue, jacket manufacturing is the topic of discussion where major players in the export and domestic market share their strategy and manufacturing systems. Though the product is not a very established one in India, the potential is huge and scope for growth will drive existing players to expand, and hopefully encourage some fresh investments also.

New Year will also see us take on the role of pure educationist with series of workshops and seminars... It is intended to fill the void where the academia failed to provide the knowledge, and industry looks forward to people having such calibre. I am sure the industry will take benefit of our initiatives and participate to be industry ready or industry forward...

StitchWord Editorial Issue November 2014

What is truly an international trade fair… it is a place where technology companies wait to launch new products and where visitors from all parts of the world converge with certain expectations of experiencing these innovations first-hand… Only three fairs in the world come close to meeting these expectations, namely Texprocess (Germany and Americas); CISMA (China); and ITMA, a relatively new event with potential.

Today, there is no other garment processing industry fair which can be truly called international. Even the technology manufacturers now do not see themselves as innovators; they are just concentrating on bringing out small improvements which they prefer to show at the regional fairs… No wonder, regional fairs are gaining importance.

It cannot be said that innovation is not happening, but that is not for the Asian market, it’s mostly to support emerging concepts like ‘re-shoring’ which have put new life into the top industrial fairs with really new and futuristic technologies. At the Texprocess, Americas earlier this year, I saw a concerted emphasis on ‘Robotics’ with companies like Softwear Automation Inc., Baxter and Apparel Made 4 You (AM4U)

presenting some revolutionary technologies. An interesting innovation expected to hit markets in 2015 is a total automated plant for sewing basic garments, while another innovator was working on a business model that lowers costs and removes markdowns of inventories through implementation of dyeing, printing, cutting and sewing operations in a small footprint, under one roof. Truly innovative stuff…

In contrast, I was saddened to see that the AAMA-TEX fair in Singapore, which at one time was a power-packed fair where the visitors would converge from all Asian countries, is not anymore of significance…, this time it died with a whimper, and rightly so… read my small but crisp report.

Among the interesting articles in the current issue is the one on umbrellas…, in a domestic market estimated at US $ 420 million, the share of Indian manufacturers is miniscule. China, as in the case of many other products, is reaping the benefits of a lethargic Indian manufacturing scenario. StitchWorld team details the opportunities while also talking to leading brand owners in the Indian market and what ails the industry... a must read!

Another article worth mentioning is the rundown on the manufacturing infrastructure at Lecoanet Hemant India, the country’s only design house to integrate ‘industrial’ and ‘luxury’ to have a business model that can give both volumes and couture with equal ease. Inspired by luxury brands like Ferragamo, LV, Fendi, Hermès and Bottega Veneta, whose products are handmade but in an industrial environment, Hemant has created a roadmap designers should look at very carefully.

StitchWord Editorial Issue October 2014

Invest in India to Incredible India to Make in India…
And now we are foisted with another feel good, feel positive vision by Modi Sarkar, “Make in India”… I distinctly remember my association with “India Investment Center” way back in 1990 when a similar thrust was also accorded in the form of “Invest in India”… How can this push be any different when issues in those times and today are not very different; same archaic labour laws still prevail, infrastructure has not improved much, customs not remotely friendly, obtaining work visa still as stringent, and I would not like to comment on ‘Babuism’…

I think the Government should have taken some more time to address some of the above issues before launching such a great and much needed program…

 Notwithstanding, the ideology behind ‘Make in India’ is good and if it has any chance to succeed, it can only be under a strong Modi Government with a clear mandate and the PM’s bonhomie with our international allies and non allies. A beginning has already been made when on a recent visit to US, the PM announced lifelong visa for PIO’s, extended stay for all US citizens and also VISA on arrival.

 What impressed me in ‘Make in India’ programme is an equal weightage given to Apparel & Textile sector, a position of respectability among all other industry sectors.

 No doubt the Textile & Apparel industry is and has always been ideally placed to be the future growth driver for India, only the Government understood it now. The industry employs the second largest manpower after agriculture and it is also a low capital intensive industry, and uneducated youth can be made employable with just 8 days’ training…, which other industry can promise so much!

 I am of the firm opinion that many of the Indian states if nurtured rightly can more than equal Bangladesh in garment exports. We recently analyzed and compared Uttar Pradesh to Bangladesh for its employable uneducated youth and the total demographic, Government support, wages… and found that it surely has an edge over Bangladesh on paper. Whereas, Bangladesh does US $ 20 billion exports, Uttar Pradesh does only US $ 1 billion…

I suggest every textile & garment person to visit ‘makeinindia.com’ to get inspired.

 Last month was also a busy month for me, I had to chair few sessions and moderate a panel discussion on diverse topics. While I enjoyed the panel discussion, the speaker session was uninspiring… The topic announced to the audience and what the speaker presented had no connection. What purpose do these kinds of seminars serve when invitee speakers are not ready to share the hard facts about what they do and how do they do it, to achieve the set objectives… The audience comes to find solutions and not listen to a lesson from a chapter in an academic book.

I think it is the problem of the knowledge partner who gives the topic but fails to moderate the presentation in the ensuing period before the D-day…

We as a magazine are better equipped to handle such situations. What we do when an author writes an article for us is vet it and ask for changes and additions or at times even push for a change in the whole concept to ensure that what is finally presented is of true value…