StitchWorld Editorial Issue May 2019

‘Smart Garment’ is now being talked about a lot in the industry, the market of which is expected to reach US $ 4 billion by 2024 with 45 per cent CAGR, according to ABI Research. This growth of smart garments is outpacing other categories in the domain of wearable technologies. Although the current developments of such clothing are based more on performance-wear and winter sports category around Western Europe, very soon it will encompass the whole gamut of the wearable segment.

As garments are becoming smarter, the differentiating line between a traditional garment and a garment with a gadget is getting blurred. CES 2019, the world’s premier show for not only consumer technologies but also innovators and breakthrough technologies, presented a number of smart garments that caught the visitors’ attention.

Mas Holdings, one of the most respected garment manufacturers of south-east Asia, has shown the path of transformation from the role of a contract manufacturer to becoming a technology company in the garment domain. The writing on the wall is clear; if the garment industry does not start dabbling with technology, the technology companies will start dabbling in garment making. With this strong message coming across, StitchWorld is introducing a new category ‘Smart Garment’ from this issue onwards, wherein we will showcase/feature the interesting developments from around the world, where technology is being used intelligently to make garments smart. In the current issue, we have discussed in detail about the award-winning smart garment, KJUS HYDRO_BOT Ski Jacket, which is claimed to be the first-ever ski jacket with wearable technology.

Digitalisation is another trend emerging faster than ever in the global apparel industry with more and more retail brands as well as apparel manufacturers embracing it. Recently, my team visited Lectra’s VIP Fashion Event held at its headquarters in Bordeaux, France. As per my brief, the attendees were made to realise the significance of digitalisation in the era of ‘hyper-connected consumers’. My team also conducted an exclusive interview of Lectra’s CMO Céline Choussy who emphasised on the significance of AI, ML, IoT, MTM and Robotics and how these concepts have turned into reality through Lectra’s cutting-edge solutions. You will find a detailed coverage of the same in the present edition.

Besides, this issue also highlights the challenges in 3D simulation where the industry’s top stalwarts in 3D share their views as to why the concept is not feasible for all product categories and how the users are miscalculating the areas of strength that 3D body scanning method actually holds.

StitchWorld Editorial Issue January 2019

New Directions for Industry in 2019
Starting a new year always brings in a sense of nostalgia. Besides reviewing the year gone by, it is a fulfilling experience to seek out directions and potential growth areas.

In technology, the one movement that I see as a potential trend going forward is the willingness to invest in robotics for factory management. Using robotics in sewing may still be far away but garment manufacturers have started looking at home-grown robotic systems in transportation, to save on labour.

Recently, Pearl Global installed robotic systems at its Chennai factory and is very optimistic of the results. I am sure many more factories will follow lead and invest in similar technologies. The days are gone when labour was abundant and cheap… now cost efficiencies are also dependent on how much labour saving can be done.

Another movement that I strongly see in the garment industry is what I had predicted years ago – the convergence of markets into one big marketplace. For a manufacturer, a market is one that is profitable and not necessarily an export market.

There is no debate on the fact that apparel buying in Western world has slowed down. Whereas the share of spending on clothing and footwear in total consumer spending in India is 6.7 per cent higher than what is seen in the US (3 per cent) and the UK (5.7 per cent). Also, the year-on-year expenditure growth in India at 12 per cent is more than double the anticipated global rate of 5 per cent.

In this scenario, is it not more viable to work with the Indian market rather than struggle with issues that are not really in the hands of the manufacturer, to be competitive in the export market, even as the market shrinks!

Every industry observer knows that the garment exports have been hit by many factors over the last two years, starting from demonetisation leading to liquidity crunch, followed by GST implementation and reduction in duty drawback rates. This is in addition to increase in wages of all these leading to the increase in cost of manufacturing.

The impact has been even greater due to the lack of any trade boosters such as the FTA with Europe. These factors, put together, have been a dent in competitiveness, of the global export industry in the past few years.

But last year, the impact of all these negative factors evened out, as GST refunds started coming in; the liquidity issues decreased and exporters learnt the hard way of how to survive on practically no duty drawbacks.

However, the factor that really brought cheer was the depreciation of the rupee, which meant that Indian exporters automatically became cheaper, without any extra effort.

This year has started on a positive note with crude prices, currency and other external influencing factors being stable. But the reality is that export is now very competitive and uncertain, so the best bet today is to address the challenges of local market and grow the business.

StitchWorld Editorial Issue December 2018

Apparel Sourcing Week 2019 – The new initiative from Apparel Resources

Apparel Resources, the publisher of StitchWorld and Apparel Online, has always explored ways to communicate with the industry, be it through in-depth articles in the magazines, workshops and seminars or through industry forums. Now the time has come to take another leap, and it gives me great pride to announce our latest initiative from Apparel Resources – the Apparel Sourcing Week 2019.

The concept is a first-of-its-kind platform to bring together the manufacturing excellence of countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam and Sri Lanka to India for the upward moving Indian retail market.

The growth of fashion in Indian retail is a story of multi-dimensional opportunities, and not only the traditional strongholds of retail, the metropolitan cities are seeing exponential growth in this domain, but also the Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities are showing affinity to branded clothing, resulting in the creation of a whole new market segment of people.

As of today, the Indian fashion retail is worth US $ 49 billion and is projected to reach US $ 75 billion by 2025. The market is being driven by a strength of 1.2 billion people of an average age of 29, having the purchasing power that makes for a robust economy that is projected to became the fourth largest economy in the world very soon and a potential market for manufacturing nations.

On one hand, this expanding market of people who have the purchasing power to indulge in fashion is pushing demand for regular basic garments, due to which one can see and also anticipate growth in categories like trousers, denim jeans, shirts and T-shirts.

What will see equal, if not bigger splurge in demand, are the products in the newer categories that cater specifically to the needs of the upward mobile millennials, like jackets, innerwear/intimatewear, athleisure, activewear/sportswear. Manufacturers will need to get their act together to be competitive and partner with retailers/brands from Indian retail and international players.

If global names like Zara, H&M, Mango, Guess, United Colors of Benetton, GAP, forever21, Levi’s, adidas, Nike, etc., have already made their presence felt, at least 100 more brands/ retailers are set to make their foray in this market in the next couple of years to cash in on the big opportunity. Alongside the global biggies coming up strongly, are the home-grown stalwarts, adding to the new-found market’s vibrancy and escalation.

The Apparel Sourcing Week ’19 will be held in the IT hub of India, Bengaluru, which also happens to be the nerve centre of Indian retail. Over time, Bengaluru has become the testing ground for all major retailers. Apart from its diverse demographic, retail executives say the city has a large white-collar workforce and tech-savvy consumers open to new ideas.The fact that Bengaluru is India’s tech and start-up hub, makes it easier to hire tech talent.

Excitement for the event is building up with retailers upbeat on the opportunity to see a unique and wide mix of manufacturers from Bangladesh, Vietnam and China with their equally diverse product portfolios under a single roof which is sure to make sourcing more exciting and dynamic.

StitchWorld Editorial Issue October 2018

Industry’s mantra: An amalgamation of technological upgradation and constructive HR methodology for best results.
The latest trend in the industry is to hold and even attend seminars and workshops on the concept of Industry 4.0 which includes digitisation, augmented reality, artificial intelligence, machine-to machine learning and 3D printing.

Gone are the days when technology for better and efficient production was the focus of attention. It seems that the incremental changes towards automation in sewing are taken as not so critical anymore, at least not critical enough to hold or attend workshops. And this can be substantiated by the fact that many of the smaller sewing machine manufacturers are selling out to bigger companies.

This is certainly not going to help the garment manufacturing industry in the short or even in the long term. However small they may be, upgradation in technology is significant to keep pace with the needs of today and should be discussed and appreciated.

 It is therefore important for the garment manufacturers to take a prudent approach and keep abreast of the latest hardware and upgraded technologies, as also be concurrently aware about the technologies of the future.

This balanced approach to learning will be helpful to grow in the present and be prepared for the future!

The second most popular topic for industry today is now Human Resource Development, which is nothing more than sharing newer methods or jargons to motivate employees/operators, considering the fact that the industry lacks formal, pragmatic contemporary HR systems and interventions.

For attaining lasting success, organisations need to embrace the key role of human resource as a necessary catalyst to enhance the entire production system by making it smoother and swifter than before.

Our current issue entails an exclusive coverage on the emerging ‘on-demand’ apparel manufacturing concept in the USA along with its diverse pros and cons being discussed by the US-based apparel industry experts.

Stitch World Editorial Issue August 2018

Delhi High Court’s Rejection of Wage Hike Brings Relief to the Industry Bringing relief to hundreds of factories in Delhi, the Delhi High Court has dismissed the State Government’s move to increase minimum wages of workers and has also set aside an earlier notification by which a Minimum Wages Advisory Committee for all scheduled employments was set up, on the ground that the constitution of the Committee was flawed.

In my interaction with factory owners, I find that no one is really against the rise in minimum wages, but all are of the opinion that there has to be a balanced approach to the ‘calculation’ that safeguards the competitiveness of the factories… I completely agree with this logic.

In fact, even during our visits to Bangladesh, the same logic is put forward by the industry there… The Government, NGOs, unions and associations, all need to sit together to find the best formulae to calculate minimum wages as per cost of living and practical implications to business… After all if factories close down, whose purpose would it serve?

I was extremely satisfied to read the content of the Court proceedings, as it reflected the maturity of the decision makers and the balanced approach taken - The Court noted that though the revision of wages ‘is sorely needed’, the ‘hurried attempt’ and ‘non-application of mind – contravening principles of natural justice has unfortunately disrupted this course, yet again’ …

The proposed notification for wage increase announced in 2017 envisaged a more than 37 per cent increase in wages across the board from unskilled to semi-skilled and skilled workers in the Delhi-NCR region. Since the announcement, factories were fearing about future business, and particularly exporters who are competing on an international platform… The High Court’s decision is indeed a reason to cheer and could be the required jack to uplift the dwindling spirits of garment exporters in the region. While increasing wages are a challenge at the worker level, finding the right candidate at the managerial level is no less daunting. During placements, both the students and companies are evaluating each other. While students go by a company’s reputation, the companies are increasingly using psychometric test as a tool to measure a person's logical and analytical abilities.

Though psychometric tests support the recruitment process, sometimes it becomes difficult for companies to decide on the weightage to be given to technical ability and psychometric scores, in the selection process. In this issue, views of industry professionals on this growing topic are discussed.

This issue also carries an exclusive interaction with Ashish Kansal, Executive Director, SMPP Pvt. Ltd., that unravels features which make the newly procured Indian Army jackets unique. On the other hand, Dr. Prabir Jana, Professor, NIFT, Delhi explores the operation breakdown of exactly the same shirt in two different factories. The logic is simple…, when the product remains standard, why is the process so different?

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Stitch World Editorial July Issue 2018

Saving cost is one of the biggest agendas for every garment exporter today… Every company is looking at how to reduce its running cost and save enough so that the bottom line is healthier.

While some companies are working within the factory to squeeze out an extra penny, others are exploring new destinations that are cost-effective. All said and done…, a solution has to be found!

When the ‘cost’ bug hit the industry many years ago, we saw factories being shifted from established hubs to interiors outside the city limits. While many Delhi based companies opened factories in Manesar, the fate of most of them is a sad story today…, only a few found success like Sarita Handa; others have either rented out the premises or are operating at below optimal levels.

The biggest reasons that exporters quote when questioned about the failure, is difficulty in getting trained manpower and the travelling woes of the middle management leading to fast turnarounds.

Similarly, other hubs too saw movement to the interiors… Laguna went to Kanakapura on the outskirts of Bangalore, while GO GO International travelled to Holenarsipur, Hassan, again on the outskirts. How fruitful these moves have been, is debatable and open to interpretation.

Armed with past experiences, companies are now therefore more keen to travel to Tier-2 cities, being backed by State Government support. Here, besides the initiatives being offered, which are quite attractive, there are facilities like airports, schools, hospitals, etc, which a company needs to set up a people-oriented industry like garments.

I have been saying for long that moving to outskirts is not a very viable option because the ecosystem for conducive business is not available. Rather the smaller cities like Ranchi, Bhubaneswar, Gandhinagar are much better options.

The number of investments that we are seeing in these cities from companies like Shahi, Matrix, Pearl, Orient Craft, Texport, Arvind, Madura Garments, Page Apparel, Kishore Exports, Shakti Wear, Meenakshi Ltd., JP Sports Apparel to name a few, is impressive. I am sure once these factories set the trend and prove successful, many more investments can be expected.

While in India, we are still struggling to save cost mostly from workers’ wages, the West is looking at high technology to get manufacturing back without the pressure of wages!

Exhibitors at Texprocess Americas this year echoed the future of apparel industry with the theme ‘Digital Apparel Microfactory’: A manufacturing set-up where various different technologies are combined together to fill customers’ orders in quantities as low as one. It can be started in even a small room and has become the strength for manufacturers based in USA. This issue of StitchWorld highlights this trendsetting concept and how the companies are embracing it.

Exploring new product categories apart from apparel has always been StitchWorld’s interest. This time, our team visited HH Interior’s factory and explored the quality and manufacturing aspects of car seat covers. A must read…

Continuing with our Poll section, read interesting views from industry experts on the topic ‘Will mass manufacturing return to the USA?’

Stitch World Editorial Issue February 2018

January month has always been a busier month hustling with activity and business owing to multiple technology trade fairs being held around the same time in both India and Bangladesh. What makes it even more interesting and spirited is the opportunity that it gives us to meet several old and new acquaintances and get the real pulse of the industry… undoubtedly, this time also I was successful in drawing many leads.

However, what perturbs me still is the industry’s ‘not-so-vibrant’ scenario, as they continue to struggle under the ongoing product-price war, and are even more badly hit due to bank’s tight lending, thanks to the NPAs and the GST, and the final nail in the coffin being the abolition of duty drawback.

Nevertheless, I was elated to come across few exporters who managed to put up a good show amidst such testing times… Here my special mention goes to Magnum Resources, a technology supplier, whose stall at GTE Delhi, apart from giving a feel of international styling also depicted the prosperous time it saw last year. From next year onwards, the company intends to take a bigger leap by not only having a larger stall but also a double-storey set-up. I must compliment their consistent courage and determination which has made them emerge as a winner in this sluggish position.

The twist in the tale was ‘automation’ or as I should say more emphatically ‘affordable automation’ which stole the show. Certain automats like cuff runstitch, collar runstitch machines, which have made their presence felt since last three decades, are finally finding a place on the shopfloor. We may have been still far from Industry 4.0 compared to the West, but automation has silently crawled its way to become an integral need for our industry’s successful survival in face of rising cost and labour crisis.

What continues to concern me though is the absence of newcomers in such potential events. I have kept harping on this time and again as I don’t get to see the new generation coming to these fairs, lacking the required inquisitiveness towards developments with regard to the industry. Now I don’t even chance to meet the regular generation next… Is this not sad?

All said and done, apparel may not be doing well but non-apparel products are already on their growth path, and as per my understanding and information, the major expansion is taking place in this segment. StitchWorld definitely endeavours to have more such nonapparel products such as gloves, backpacks, wallets and more on its pages for its readers… Our next issue will update you on the detailed happening in the technological front and their implementation in India and Bangladesh.

If you don’t know yet, my company Apparel Resources has recently released a book Industrial Engineering in Apparel Manufacturing and has also used GTE as a launching pad for our Apparel Resources Jobs portal… Don’t miss further information on these new ventures in our upcoming Apparel Online magazine and our website apparelresources.com.

I must admit that I have stated only a small fragment of the vast pool of thoughts which surround me, and more will be shared with you shortly…

Stitch World Editorial Issue January 2018

Even as we welcome the New Year with its vivacious colours, wishing a bright future for the industry, my sincere advice is that the quicker we forget about the happenings of last year and move on to chart a new growth path, the better and wiser it would be for all of us.

Yet, recalling the eventful year gone by and the manifold jolts it gave to the industry, I am in a way unable to drive myself out of its dominant impacts. First, the demonetisation which seeped the entire liquid fund from the market and then the imposition of GST which blocked whatever money was left and now the hammer on duty drawback...; of course, not to forget the external impediments of price squeeze by the buyers and loworder volume.

In all fairness, it seems that the entire last year was spent on matters which were not productive, but rather disruptive.

Moving ahead, we would be required to take many bold steps to stop the downward trajectory, the first among them would be to give the reigns of the industry into the hands of the younger generation… It’s high time we understand and appreciate that there are companies which do not hire employees who are more than 35 years of age, and even retire them at 52. Employees of such companies are even given the privilege of bringing in new and innovative ways of working, not training them to think in old ways.

In what can be called a massive shift in the thought process, you have to permit these young Turks the scope to make alterations which at the onset might seem difficult to accept…But on honest analysis, the realisation soon dawns that there is merit in it.

Metro cities from where we have been operating for a long time is our comfort zone; we should certainly endeavour to move to smaller cities to take advantage of the low wages and also taxation incentives offered by the State Governments. We have some successful examples in the industry itself; just look around you.

We should also seriously start catering to the domestic market as well..., operationalize our sewing lines in such a way that they can service both the domestic as well as export customers. In not so far future, you will find that the international brands operating in India have started procuring from the Indians as well as from markets closer home.

Reflecting upon examples of several international stores closing down due to their reluctance to source from India, we earnestly need to pull up our socks and stretch our flexibility level to produce what the Indian customers want. If the industry needs to survive, it needs to make large investment on warehousing and manufacturing in India.

These are just some of the short goals of a long journey where we need to create brands and a stamp of quality for our products. A vision quite similar to what has been done by Italy, France or closer home in SriLanka. The driver now is value-based branding even though quantities may not be large.

This first issue of the new year, RELIVE 2017, takes the readers through a retrospect journey of the various subjects which were in focus last year. These can be aptly summed under eight core areas – People, Technology 4.0, Production Management, Human Resource Management, Product Management, Production Technology, Information Technology and Event.

Stitch World Editorial Issue October 2017

Two diverse developments in the garment arena are fascinating me today. The first being the talk about Industry 4.0 and the speed of the industry to adopt machines to impress the garment manufacturers.

However, many have an ambiguous understanding of the concept and are already positioning their technologies as Industry 4.0, ready to impress their customers. Their limit to get admiration can extend up to just putting a sensor to mark the machine temperature,which is communicated to the user via an app and qualifies for a company as an Industry 4.0 ready technology!

It is obvious that the garment manufacturers currently are unware about this emerging innovation since they accept every bit of computer-aided technology presented to them as Industry 4.0 ready, without question. But then, every concept takes time to develop and shape up to a level when both sides of the industry become well-versed and equipped to understand the thought in its totality and use it optimally.

The second development that I am watching very carefully is the upward movement of manufacturing in the USA, which is now US $ 13.6 billion of shipments annually, and which is growing further. Though most manufacturers in the US have small units with 25-60 machines, the growth is coming through big Chinese investments that are happening in garmenting, of late.

The latest is a Chinese company setting up a robotic plant in the US to take advantage of the ‘Trump Trust’ for local manufacturing. I am sure these kinds of initiatives would put a greater emphasis on the need to expedite Industry 4.0 equipped technology.

I will be visiting CISMA this month and it will be interesting to see how Chinese technology companies are geared up to imbibe Industry 4.0 in their technological processes. Earlier this year, the 4.0 revolution was the buzzword at Texprocess, Germany.

StitchWorld has always stayed ahead, bringing you all the newer perspectives and latest technologies, without losing touch with reality, because the major chunk of manufacturing still happens in the Third World (developing) economies, which require basic machines and few automats to make complete use of lower labour wages.

Our special issue covers a comprehensive preview of the technology variants that one can look forward to witness at CISMA from various technology manufacturers from around the globe.

Stitch World Editorial Issue August 2017

Participating in exhibitions is always a learning experience and being at Gartex 2017 was really an exciting experience after a long time. Though these are tough times for the industry, still they all came in large numbers to the fair with the hope for finding something new and different.

I met many owners, CEOs and senior management from export houses from across the country. Gartex 2017 saw participation of companies like Orient Craft, Eastman Export, Blackberry, KK Overseas (Jaipur) and companies from as far as Kolkata, Dehradun and Mohali. This was inspiring considering the fact that the market for both the segments is not at its best. The exporters and domestic manufacturers are all struggling to come to terms with the effect of demonetisation and GST. Both these policies have reduced money flow in the market and increased the need for working capital, affecting business at various other levels too.

Through candid interactions with all these companies, I found that though no one was really complaining that the policies are bad or not good for the country/industry, the main grouse was that many grey areas still exist and there is no clarity on many critical areas – mostly related to 18% GST on job work in the apparel segment. While those exporters who have all value adding capabilities in-house will be at an advantage, the middle level and smaller exporters who are dependent on contractual job workers for their value-added processes will have to bear the increased cost...

The other concern being reduction in duty drawback..., most exporters have come forward to discuss how the drawback was their only saviour amongst the several impediments and had helped to keep their balance sheet in black. But now with the reduction in the duty drawback to 3 to 4%, even this last expectation is gone.

With Surat being practically closed from the beginning of July and growing fear of another round of strikes, the supply chain has been hit badly. Deadlines are going for a toss and hectic lobbying is going on to break the deadlock.

For domestic manufacturers, since many markets are closed, demand is slow since June. And it is no secret that both the US and EU are facing difficult times…, yet the positive part is that the industry is keen to explore new technologies which will help them to become more competitive on value, and the quality visitation at Gartex is proof of the same!

Stitch World Editorial Issue June 2017

At Texprocess, Frankfurt, Germany, besides meeting a lot of old friends and colleagues from the industry, all that I heard there was ‘Industry 4.0’… Every technology provider was talking about concepts like Internet of Things, additive manufacturing, manto- machine communication, machine-to-machine communication, SaaS, smart manufacturing, and artificial intelligence – each concept an integral part of the term Industry 4.0.

Many of the technologies I saw were tailor-made for western countries where labour is a scarce and expensive resource. The idea behind many of the machines was to eliminate human intervention and fully automate processes from design to production and in some cases even include retail and logistics.

So, does that mean Industry 4.0 is actually about taking production back to the West…? I have my reservations on how relevant Industry 4.0 is for the manufacturing world today. Even before automation has properly been adopted in Asia and other developing nations where production is happening, the focus of technology providers is already shifting to the next phase without fully perfecting the automation stage and making it suitable to the needs of the countries that are leading production today…

Can the technology providers afford to ignore the requirements of these manufacturing destinations, which are their biggest selling markets…? I don’t think so! In reality, the Texprocess platform is about the future, though in manufacturing countries the push is still on selling automation.

Most industry experts agree that the future is still a mystery and difficult to predict, what’s sure is that it would be very different from today and if companies do not start preparing now, they would be wiped out of business…

Our analysis of Texprocess is an attempt to decode Industry 4.0 as the debate gets louder… The same will continue in the next issue where many more technologies including IT solutions will be featured.

Even as technology providers move into the future, in a wave of retail bankruptcies, over 8,600 retail stores closure is being projected. Consumers are shifting a greater percentage of their disposable income to ‘experiences’ rather than ‘shopping’, creating an ‘adapt or die’ situation for retailers. Ed Gribbin, President, Alvanon Inc. suggests some of the ways through which retailers can sustain in a competitive environment.

Another interesting read in this issue is WFX Cloud ERP that has integrated new features into the solution such as ‘Analytics’ tool, which enables control over complete supply chain, and ‘Alert System’ that notifies the user before the deadline. Also, the second part of Kaizen Korner series addresses Lean Manufacturing, where David Permenter, Educational Director, DCC Print Vision LLC, tells how to identify waste and eliminate it.

Stitch World Editorial Issue January 2017

StitchWorld is in its 14th year, and has evolved tremendously in its content and reach. We have graduated from topics like operator and supervisor training to concepts like IoT, M2M and automation, moving towards Robotics and the era of 3D printing and 3D pattern making. Yet, the focus of the magazine has not changed at all - productivity, on-time delivery and quality - still remain at the core; how to achieve these goals are evolving, resulting in new concepts and management tools.

Today, managing a factory is a very complex game; it is no longer about just building a state-of-the-art factory. How the factory is managed, and what are the external influences and challenges of profitability are critical elements that can make or break even the best of factories… Through the year, my editorials have reflected these challenges…, emerging from factors both within and outside the factory.

It all sounds very nice, but the industry is taking a cautious stand… They know that Governments don’t really understand the nuances of the industry, and just by giving incentives to set-up a unit is not going to help the cause. I have pointed out many
times that the issue is inter-related to many concerns… In my editorial in February, I had said, “The three areas that need attention are ‘Clean India’, ‘Healthy India’ and ‘Corruption-free India’. If these three areas are taken care of, all other requirements for sustainable growth of manufacturing will follow automatically.”

Another interesting point that evolved over the year and strongly advocated by the stalwarts of the technology industry is that automation alone is not the answer to labour issues… They emphasize on the need to balance automation with motivation. I fully endorse this view and we are almost ending from where we started - operator training; only the focus is not so much on training but motivation!

I had pointed out in my September editorial that too much automation is not a solution, it has to be selective automation on those operations where replacing the labour makes sense. After all it is about replacing labour wages that cost rupees per month as against western countries where the equation is in dollars per day.

External influences like terrorism, Brexit, US elections have all been contemplated on, and 2017 will see how these events of the past year will push business interest. New innovations, technology service outsourcing, re-shoring and new global manufacturing destinations like Ethiopia and Myanmar have all found place in various editorial musings… But what I would like to say fresh is that the time has come to reassess the scope of StitchWorld - sewing industry is now too big to be limited by the literal context.

This year we propose to re-orient focus within the gamut of garment manufacturing and management. The new focus areas besides the core subjects of production technology and production/product management will be on: Technology 4.0 that will talk about future technologies; Information Technology - a rundown on latest offering from the segment; Global Sourcing - acknowledging that manufacturing in one country is a culmination of sourcing from various destinations; Sustainability - the future no doubt; HR Management - a step upward from pure labour issues; Value Addition - creating differentiation for companies and countries; and finally Knitting Technology - a reality check, recognizing that garmenting is both
about woven and knitted products.

Stitch World Editorial Issue December 2016

The more countries I visit, the more I realize that the problems faced by the industry are more or less the same… It is just the culture of the place and peoples’ happiness levels and aspirations that make the small differences in productivity and efficiency levels of the factory.

I have closely observed the industry in India, Bangladesh and now Vietnam…, and one thing is very clear, factories in all these countries need technology management interventions at all levels.

Though there are only a few Vietnamese apparel manufacturing companies in Vietnam with production being dominated by the Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean companies, the problems in terms of management are the same. My understanding after talking to some experts working in the industry is that irrespective of where the country of origin is, all require some kind of production management intervention, similar to what Indian or Bangladeshi companies require.

On the hindsight, it seems that although most of the countries from where garmenting has shifted from – like Korea, the US, Europe and even Japan – have progressed immensely as nations, but garment factory management skills have remained at the same level when they left the country… Case in point is the numerous foreign-owned factories in Vietnam, where systems of effective management are still ‘old school’. These companies have moved out of their respective countries too long back to imbibe any new system.

Technology upgradation is easy as latest machines are available to all, but how to optimize factory resources, including the machines, is another ball game. I strongly feel that to grow, factories require latest intervention in production management as much as any other input, perhaps the need is even more…!

At StitchWorld, it is our effort to provide insights into such production management systems and tools. In this issue we bring to you an article ‘Quality Engineering – An emerging concept to ease quality worries’! which discusses in detail the concept of quality engineering as opposed to quality control as the new mantra to ensure quality of product during the production process.

The various technology interventions for button wrapping from basic machines to fully automatic ones, is the focus in our technology segment. In another interesting read, an ex-NIFTian shares his journey to create a unique business model to support designers with samples and small production runs.